A Guide for Setting Up a Basic Planted Aquarium

A Guide for Setting Up a Basic Planted Aquarium

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So you have seen beautiful aquariums with healthy and lush plants and now want to start one yourself. Starting a planted aquarium can be a daunting task. Figuring out what to buy and what to do requires a bit of research. There are a lot of tutorials and guides out on there designed to show beginners how to set up a planted aquarium, this is just another one of them. The objective here is to show hobbyists how I would set one up. I hope this guide will help you achieve a successful long-term planted aquarium.

Things used in this guide:

*Most of the equipment used in this guide is provided by AZOO & UP-Aqua

Optional Step
Sprinkle some bacteria powder (AZOO BioPro) on the bottom of the tank. This will jumpstart the bacteria population and helps with the maturity of the aquarium. Plants grow better in mature tanks and you will encounter fewer problems such as algae outbreaks.

Step 1
Fill the aquarium with Aquasoil. The amount of soil depends on your preference and layout. Make sure that there is enough soil to anchor the plants. A minimum thickness of 5cm is what I typically use.

What is Aquasoil?
Aquasoil is a special substrate designed to create a favourable environment for your plants. It will buffer the pH of the water to a certain range and provide nutrients for the plants to grow. 

Step 2
In a basic planted aquarium, it is typical to have the substrate from the back slope downwards gradually towards the front. This will help create a sense of depth, giving the illusion that the aquarium is bigger than it actually is. 

Step 3
Arrange the hardscape materials until you are satisfied with the placement. Take into consideration the area required for your equipment such as heater, filter, pipes, etc. The hardscape will define your aquarium and is an essential element in an aquascape. 

Step 4
Add water enough to fully saturate the Aquasoil. This will make planting easier. 

Step 5
Prepare the plants to be used. In this guide I used Ludwigia arcuata, Eleocharis, Anubias nana ‘Petite’, Rotala rotundifolia, Blyxa japonica and Hydrocotyle ‘Mini’ 

Step 6
Begin planting. I typically cut stem plants into smaller pieces. Do not be concerned about whether or not it has roots, as stem plants will develop root systems very quickly. It is recommended to cover your tank with as many plants as you can. Plants will absorb excess nutrients and speed up the cycling process.
A good set of tweezers is handy to keep the plants anchored in the substrate.

Step 7
Fill the tank with water very slowly to ensure that there is no plant and soil displacement. This will also minimise the clouding effect apparent in some Aquasoils.

Step 8
Set up CO2 system. Connect the regulator to the cylinder and ensure a tight fit (use an adjustable wrench). Attach the tubing from regulator to the check valve & bubble counter. Turn the adjustable knob on the CO2 regulator known as the needle valve. You should see the needles in gauges jump. In typical dual gauge regulators, one of the gauges indicate the pressure of the CO2 cylinder and the other is the working pressure.
Tip
Remember to use tubing designed for CO2. Silicon tubing will harden and crack over time. There will also be CO2 losses through the silicon tubing wall due to its permeability.

Step 9
Connect the CO2 outlet to the diffuser. Place the diffuser in an area where the bubbles will get maximum dispersion, usually opposite the filter outlet. The goal here is to prolong the contact time between the CO2 and water. The bubbles reaching the surface is wasted CO2.  
Ensure that you have a filter designed to suit the tank volume. A good water flow is important to ensure CO2 and nutrients are delivered to all parts in the aquarium. It is recommended to place the filter outlet where it will generate a gentle surface current. 

Step 10
Install the lighting system. It is recommended to use one that is designed for growing aquatic plants. Lighting is the most important element in a planted aquarium, as plants will wither away and die with insufficient or inappropriate lighting.

Step 11
Connect the lights and CO2 system to separate timers. Run both for 8 hours but have the CO2 turn 30-60 minutes (depending on size of tank) before the lights turn on and 30-60 before lights off. This will ensure that there is a sufficient level of CO2 when the lights turn on.
What is a solenoid?
The solenoid valve in a CO2 system allows gas flow when there is an electric current. Simply put when it is plugged in the CO2 turns on and turns off when unplugged. Connect it to a timer and you can coordinate it with the lights.
You will hear a click from the solenoid when it turns on and off. 

Tip
The amount of CO2 injected, usually represented as the amount of bubbles per second (bps), depends on the size of the aquarium and how densely it is planted.
A CO2 indicator or drop checker is a great measuring tool for the level of CO2 in the water. The colour of the indicator solution in the drop checker will vary depending on the concentration of carbon dioxide. Blue translates to insufficient CO2, green is optimal and yellow means the water too much. Use it as a guide to determine the right amount of bps.
In the first few weeks before introducing fish and/or shrimp I always turn up the CO2 until the drop checker turns yellow. This will spur plant growth and minimise issues relating to algae.  

Result
Immediately after set up

Two weeks after set up